Behaviour

• Why does my dog lick me?
• Why does my dog eat droppings? What can I do?
• My female dog was in heat when she was spayed. Now she is collecting her toys and treating them like puppies. Is she having a false pregnancy?
• At what point should a veterinarian recommend medication for separation anxiety?
• My puppy likes to bite me when we play. How can I teach him to play without biting or scratching?
• Is my dog's hearing loss normal?
• How can I stop my puppy from urinating when she gets excited?
• Why does my dog scratch himself silly?
• Our dog constantly chases his tail and then chews on it. What can we do?
• Recently, my dog's been keeping his tail tucked under. It used to curl up. What's wrong?
• Can I train my dog to use a litter box?
• How can we make the move to a new home easier on our cat?
• What's the best way to deal with a scared cat?
• How can I introduce a new cat to my household?
• What can be done about a cat urinating all over the house?
• How can I teach my cat to walk on a leash?
• Is hunting and eating his prey bad for our cat's health?
• How can I get my kitten to stop chewing on electrical cords?
• How can I get my cat to stop jumping on everything?
• Why does my cat get carried away and attack me?
• Why does my cat "talk" so much?
• What should I do about my cockatiel's egg?

Dogs lick for a lot of reasons. Licking is a submissive social signal, first of all, allowing dogs to show deference to dominant "pack members." Puppies lick to solicit solid food from their mothers when they're weaned, so a young dog may lick to request its dinner. Some dogs lick as a substitute for puppy mouthing behavior. They've been trained not to put their teeth on people, so they lick to occupy their mouths. Licking may be a sign of affection, your dog's way of showing you that he's enjoying spending time cuddled on the couch with you. Or, he may just like the taste of your soap!
Though it's usually harmless, licking can be a problem if carried to an extreme. Sometimes dogs can lick compulsively or as a response to stress or boredom. Obsessive dogs that lick themselves non-stop can lick their fur off and even injure their skin. This is a behavioral problem that may require veterinary intervention. If you're worried that your dog's licking is unusual, consult your veterinarian.

The technical, more polite name for what you are describing in your dog's behavior is coprophagia. It is a very common problem. Actually in most canines it is a normal behavior. Of course, mothers consume their pups' droppings until they are old enough to get away from the nest to eliminate, but dogs will eat other dogs' feces and even that of other species. It is a little more unusual for them to eat their own, but it still happens.

Assuming other health concerns such as vaccinations and parasite elimination have been taken care of by your veterinarian, and your dog is on a well-balanced diet, then the idea that it comes from a vitamin deficiency can be ruled out.

At this point, your dog's habit of eating feces should be approached from a behavioral perspective. The more a behavior occurs the more likely it will be repeated. That means physically preventing it from happening helps your dog forget about it. Whatever you do, it will take some time to modify the behavior.

That means letting your dog know that it is bad through a loud, firm, scolding voice. You can use this method when your pet sniffs or shows interest in feces. It helps to have your pet on a leash when outside to give you some physical control over movement as well.

Products such as monosodium glutamate (seasoning salt) added to a pet's food makes the feces less desirable. A more direct approach includes putting Tobasco or bitter lemon on the feces itself. Some pet owners simply clean the yard every day to remove any temptation.

What you describe is a classic case of false pregnancy. Because of the way a female dog's reproductive cycle works, it is very common for a false pregnancy to follow spaying during a heat period. Basically, the pituitary gland in the brain assumes the dog is pregnant causing the changes in behavior. The good news is that is will subside without treatment soon, usually within a week. Be careful of her behavior because some female dogs become very protective of their imaginary puppies.
 

There are volumes of information on separation anxiety. Even "experts" do not agree on causes and treatments. This is probably because the abnormal behavior is considered one problem when actually there are probably many causes.
The fact that your other two dogs are normal, and one pet is doing the damage seems to indicate that she is the one with the problem. However, that does not mean that your actions haven't or don't inadvertently encourage it. All dogs have different personalities and do not end up exactly the same just because they have the same owner, just like children with the same parents.

Your specific question is regarding anxiety relieving medications. Antidepressants, anxiety relieving, or mood altering drugs are seldom the definitive treatment for behavioral problems. Most of the time they are used as part of an overall behavioral modification program. Separation anxiety is a problem that is commonly treated with medications at least on a temporary basis.

You can work at solving you puppy's biting problems by doing several things simultaneously. First, you need to divert you pet's play activities away from your body. You can do this by encouraging fetch games and discouraging wrestling or tug-of-war games. Second, you can remove any positive reinforcement when biting occurs. This means that you walk away and ignore you puppy for five minutes each time it performs a behavior that you don't find acceptable. You're not even allowed to talk to the dog during this time. Third, you provide a negative reinforcement for the objectionable behavior. You can do this by painting you skin with vinegar in the vulnerable places you know the puppy will bite. You can also make a shaker can from an empty pop can containing a dozen pennies that you shake vigorously when the biting occurs. Then you can also use a firm and loud "NO!" Finally, you can offer positive reinforcement and praise when the dog plays nice. The most important point is that everyone in the family has the same game plan and follows through consistently.

Unfortunately hearing loss is quite common at age 14. It is neurologic in nature, and there is no treatment for the loss. Hearing aids have been tried in dogs but are not tolerated.

The problem of submissive urination is a combination of a physical condition and a behavioral one. The physical component is a lack of tone in the sphincter of her bladder that holds the urine in. It's more common in females due to the shortness of their urethra (the connection between their bladder and the outside). This may improve with age.
The behavioral factor is a contraction of the muscles that empty the bladder when she is placed in a very submissive situation or is very excited. She is probably naturally submissive, which makes these experiences stronger stimulants to her.

There is little we can do about the physical part. There are medications which can increase the tone, but I would not recommend them for a puppy. The best control is dealing with the behavioral aspect. Maturity will lessen her submissiveness, but you must work to ensure she becomes more confident in herself.

Avoid situations where the urination occurs. When you come home, instead of greeting her at the door and making a big deal about the reunion, try to diffuse the situation by ignoring her. Just walk right by her, and let her outside before you acknowledge her. Eventually, she will learn not to become too excited about your returns.

Other situations can be dealt with the same way. When strangers approach her, give her a treat or get her attention some other way to diffuse the excitement or threat of the approach. Consult with your veterinarian on this topic as well.

The most common cause of constant itching is pollen allergy (such as mold, dust, etc.). Realize that allergies in pets, as in people, is genetic. Your pet may experience seasonal allergies. Your dog also may have parasites, like scabies or cheyletiella, or even a skin infection. If your dog is persistently scratching, visit your veterinarian. There are many treatments your veterinarian can administer to ease your pet.

Dogs chase their tails for several reasons. If your veterinarian examined your dog and didn't find any fleas or problems with your dog's anal glands, then you could be dealing with a behavior problem. It may have started when he was bored and now tail-chasing has become a habit. In some dogs, tail-chasing can be an obsessive-compulsive disorder. In others, it's a source of attention. Your veterinarian may be able to suggest a good animal behaviorist that can help diagnose and treat the problem.
In the meantime, try not to react when he chases his tail. Laughing or scolding him are forms of attention and this could be what he wants. If there are any incidences that seem to trigger the behavior, try to get him into a down-stay before he can chase his tail.

These suggestions may help, but some dogs, if they are causing harm to themselves, may need drug therapy in addition to behavior modification to solve the problem.

There are a few reasons dogs will keep their tails tucked between their legs, but most commonly the behavior is a response to pain or discomfort. Many dogs are prone to back or hip pain, for example. Raising the tail can place pressure against these sore areas, so the dog keeps it tucked under.
Dogs will also keep their tails tucked because of emotional distress. When they are depressed, frustrated, stressed, or afraid, they may tuck their tails to demonstrate their emotions. Stressful changes in a dog’s home environment could cause these emotional responses.

Talk to your veterinarian about the change in your dog’s behavior. He or she can check for physical problems that may be causing your dog discomfort, as well as investigating emotional and other causes.

Dogs can be trained to use a certain area set aside for elimination. They’re less fussy than cats about what materials you use to absorb the waste, so you could put old newspapers, paper litter, clay, or another absorbent material in the bottom of the pan. No matter what material you decide to use, use it consistently. At first, you may want to leave the litter a little dirty, because dogs tend to go back to a place where they have gone before. For the same reason, clean the carpet whenever your dog has an accident, to be sure she doesn’t return to the same spot.
Most of all, be patient and consistent. Develop a schedule of feeding, playing, walking, and sleeping, which will keep your dog on an elimination schedule as well. Learn the times when she will generally have to go: after eating, after waking up and, for puppies, about every 20-30 minutes when they are awake and playing. Watch for the cues your dog gives before urinating, like sniffing and circling, and place her in the pan when you see her getting ready to go. Praise her when she uses the pan.

Different dogs learn at different rates, so it may take a few days of accidents before your pet learns to use the pan. Eventually, though, with gentle persistence, she can learn to use the litter box consistently. Remember, though, the pan is not meant to replace trips outside, but to supplement them. Your dog still needs to go outside for exercise and fresh air every day.

It's a good idea to plan ahead for your cat's move. The less trauma associated with the move, the better for the cat.
Try keeping her confined to one room in your new place when you aren't home. As much as possible, keep your daily routine the same, since dogs and cats live for routine and changes can upset them. If your cat doesn't want to explore her new home, don't force the issue. She'll explore on her own as she becomes more comfortable. Keeping her in one room with familiar furniture will help her become more relaxed.

Most cats adjust pretty quickly to new surroundings as long as their family remains intact. Some skittish cats may take a little longer, but they will eventually come around.

Cats that have severe fears of human strangers can take some time to warm up. The most important thing is that you keep yourself from getting bitten or scratched while the two of you are getting to know each other.
If the cat is staying in the basement, you might want to make sure that you deliver small meals to her several times daily to get her used to you and your voice being associated with food. Keep a litter pan there for her, and clean it daily. A large bowl of water should also be available at all times. It may take months for her to trust you enough to approach you. Try not to pick her up or even touch her until you are sure she is comfortable with it.

For health reasons, get a list of vaccinations or worming treatments that have been done in the past and have your veterinarian review the medical history. There may be things that need to brought up to date to make your cat a safe and healthy member of your family. Live traps are sometimes necessary to confine cats that are not safe to handle. If the cat has not been vaccinated for rabies, it should be strictly confined with no physical exposure to anyone for 10 days.

With some time and attention, your new cat may very well warm up to you, but expect it to take some time.

First, be sure that your new kitty is tested for Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV). If she is negative for both of these diseases, then she should be pretty safe around your cat. Still, quarantine her for1 week (2-3 weeks is even better); then put her in her own room in your house to start the introduction process.
The key to introducing a new pet is to GO SLOW! Give the new cat about 1-2 weeks in her own room where the two cats can sniff each other under the door. Once they are doing this with minimal hissing, switch the situation. Put your cat in the room for a few hours and let the new kitty roam the house. This allows the resident cat to smell the new cat's scent and explore without worrying about having to fight the newcomer. It also allows the new cat to explore the new house and become familiar with hiding areas.

The next step is to let them see each other from across a room or through a tall baby gate you put across the doorway of the room where the new kitty is. Then, when they're used to this, let the cats out together SUPERVISED, and put down a treat (canned cat food, tuna, etc.). Use two dishes on opposite sides of the room so that both cats are in the same room eating their special treat. Do this at roughly the same time every day, and soon the cats will be running to be in the same place at the same time. When hissing and growling subsides, then start moving the dishes closer together. If they start growling at each other, you have moved the dishes too close, too quickly and need to back off. Soon they will associate a good thing with seeing each other.

Do not let them together unsupervised, as they could fight and hurt each other. The entire process will probably take about 6 weeks, and even then they may not be buddies but can be in the same room without hissing at each other. Good luck, and remember -- patience!

If you've not done so already, have him thoroughly examined by your veterinarian to make sure he has no underlying problems causing him to urinate excessively. Many diseases or infections will cause excessive urination. If there are no medical problems, then the urination is likely a behavioral problem. Your cat may be marking his territory, or he may have some problem with the litterbox you're using: the type, amount, or cleanliness of the litter; the location of the box, etc. Sudden changes or stress such as introducing a new cat or dog to the household, moving, or the addition of a new family member can cause a cat to stop using his litterbox, as well. If your cat is not neutered, then it is highly recommend that that be done.
How many litterboxes do you have? What kind of litter are you using? The litterbox should be cleaned at least once daily. If you've recently changed litter brands, change back! Cats can be very particular about the kind of litter they use. If you haven't changed litter, try adding another box with a completely different type of litter in it. Most cats prefer scoopable (clumping), unscented litter in uncovered boxes. Stay away from litters with lots of fragrance. As an experiment, try putting three (at least) litterboxes in your house. Place them right at or near the exact spots where he's urinating inappropriately, and scoop all boxes daily. This is just one example of things you can try.

If your cat is still urinating outside the box, consult with your veterinarian or a pet behaviorist. Another option is medical therapy. Discuss medications with your veterinarian. You may need to give your cat a pill once a day or once a week, depending on the medication. Some of the medications have side effects and some don't work very well. It really depends on the cat, and it may take some experimentation to solve the problem.

Litterbox problems can be very difficult to correct, especially if they have been going on for awhile. In most cases, however, they CAN be solved, so don't give up too easily!

It's admirable that you're trying to help your feline buddy lose weight and stimulate him with walks. You may or may not be able to teach him how to walk on a leash. Your cat's ability to walk on a leash will in part be determined by his personality. If he is a confident or bold cat, your chances are good that he will learn. If he is skittish or shy, he may be too frightened outdoors to walk comfortably on a leash.
The other factor that will determine how well he takes to a leash is the method that you use to teach him. If his first experiences with the leash and harness are frightening or upsetting, you'll have more trouble in future attempts. Keep the training sessions very short and upbeat. Use lots of food that he really likes (this won't help with his weight problem, so cut back on his regular food) until he learns how much fun being outdoors on a leash can be.

Clicker training would probably work best to teach a cat leash walking. Clicker training involves using operant conditioning to teach an animal a specific behavior. Most information on clicker training that is available today relates to using clickers to train dogs. But clicker training also works for horses, dolphins, fish, cats, etc. Check your library or bookstore for a good book about this effective training method.

Hunting is certainly the most natural way for a cat to eat, and in general, eating the prey is not that dangerous, with a few exceptions.
Most concerning is the bat you mentioned. In many parts of the country, bats can carry rabies, which is a disease you don't want to fool with. Make absolutely sure your cat stays current on all his vaccinations, particularly his rabies vaccination. And don't directly expose yourself to a living or dead bat; wear gloves if you must handle a bat. Other species that are at risk for carrying rabies include skunks, raccoons, foxes and occasionally coyotes. Although your cat does not prey on these animals, he could come into contact with them if he spends a lot of time outdoors.

If anyone in your household is pregnant or planning pregnancy, she should avoid contact with the cat's feces (have someone else do the litterbox cleaning and the gardening), and wash her hands after petting him.

Other things your kitty could contract are mostly minor, such as bacterial and fungal infections and some parasites. Check your cat often for fleas and ticks, and have a stool sample checked by a veterinarian every six to 12 months to determine the presence of intestinal parasites.

As long as your cat goes outdoors, he will always hunt, and not much you do will change that. A bell collar may help a bit to alert prey to the cat's presence, but plenty of cats hunt quite effectively with such collars.

It sounds like you have a normal, inquisitive kitten. But chewing on electrical cords is quite dangerous. The good news is that he should start outgrowing this behavior soon.
Have you tried putting something distasteful on the cords? Cayenne pepper spray or bitter apple spray can deter some cats from chewing. You can also cover the cords with paper towel tubing or PVC pipe. Your kitty should lose house privileges unless someone is home to supervise him. When you're not at home, put him in a room with no cords.

Also, make sure that your kitten has plenty of appropriate toys to play with. One way you can make his toys go further is to put a few out for him to play with, and put the rest away. A few days later, hide the toys that were left out, and leave out some new toys that had been put away. Even old toys will look new to your cat after they've been hidden for a few days.

With a bit of persistence, your kitten will start to leave the cords alone. If, in spite of all these precautions, you catch him chewing on the cords, chase him away with a squirt of water from a spray bottle. Don't yell at him or spank him; just calmly squirt him until he leaves the cords alone. Good luck with your kitten!

Cats will generally jump up on things if there is a reason for them to jump up there. They'll jump onto counters to look for food or to look out a window. If you have a dog that bothers the cat, your kitty may be looking for a higher place to escape. At his age, he is also very curious and willing to explore lots of places. Methods of keeping him off counters and furniture include putting double-sided tape all over the forbidden area or putting a plastic carpet runner upside-down on it. Don't use mousetraps-they can be dangerous if he gets a foot stuck in one. If he's jumping on things to reach a window, cover up the window for awhile so he can't look out of it, or just accept that he is going to get up there to gaze outside. If he's jumping onto things in search of food, be very careful not to leave any food accessible. For any of these methods to work, however, you'll have to keep it up for quite awhile, at least several weeks. If he gets on the counter and discovers that there is no unpleasantness there, he'll be encouraged to continue jumping up there. Keeping him occupied with play sessions several times a day may also discourage him from looking for his own entertainment.

Strange as it may seem, your cat is not attacking you out of hostility, but because he is a perfectly normal cat. Many cats nip and bite when they’re happy, particularly if they have a low threshold for stimulation. You can learn the warning signs of when your cat’s becoming overstimulated: you might feel his muscles tense or see his tail twitch or his rear end waggle. If you can tell he’s about to bite, stop petting, and pet him again when he’s calmed down.
If your cat is stalking your feet, he’s engaging in what is called predatory-play behavior. He has a natural instinct to attack moving objects in the wild. Indoors, your feet are the only moving prey he has to ambush. The easiest way to prevent this behavior is by making sure your cat is neutered, which is the first step toward making him less aggressive. Second, you can give him plenty of non-human moving targets to play with by trailing a string across the floor, waving feather toys, or giving him balls to bat around. Finally, you can help change his behavior by consistently discouraging his attacks. Safe and effective ways to do this are spraying him with a water bottle or using a can of compressed air--just like the ones used on computer keyboard--to make a loud hissing sound. If you are vigilant and discourage the attacks consistently, you’ll take a big step toward changing your cat’s behavior. 

Vocalizing is a very normal part of being a cat, and some cats naturally make more noise than others. Some breeds are more prone to "talking." The oriental breeds, particularly Siamese cats, tend to do a lot of vocalizing. So, to some extent, the noisemaking is just part of your cat's personality. Unless your cat seems to be distressed or in pain, you can consider her chattiness quite normal.
Normal or not, you may still want to stop her late-night meowing so you can get some sleep! She is most likely looking for attention, and she has learned that if she cries long enough, you will get up and let her in the bedroom. The most effective step toward changing her undesired behavior is not to reward it. If you consistently refuse to respond to her crying, she may eventually stop. It may take a lot of patience and persistence to retrain her, but she can eventually learn to entertain herself at night.

It may also help to tire her out before bedtime. Let her chase a string or a feather toy for twenty minutes before bedtime, and she may sleep later the next morning. It may also satisfy her need for attention enough to last her through the night. Another idea is to place some of her favorite toys near your bedroom door, to distract her when she comes looking for a playmate. You may even want to consider getting another cat. A second pet could keep her from feeling bored or lonely at night, and make her feel more secure. Introducing a new cat to the household can be challenging, however. Depending on your cat's age and personality, she may be hostile to the "intruder." Older and fussier cats can have a hard time adjusting to new family members. Consider your cat's personality before you adopt a new pet, or you could have fighting cats waking you up instead of meowing.

If none of these solutions are effective, you may have to shut your cat in a room far enough away from yours that you can get some sleep. You may want to take her to a veterinarian to discuss whether she should be treated for an anxiety or obsessive-compulsive disorder. In extreme cases, veterinarians can prescribe anti-anxiety medication to stop compulsive behavior.

I have two, three-year-old female cockatiels. I know that they can lay eggs without a male bird being present. One of ours did recently, but we can't tell which one. What should I do about this egg? Will they lay more?
Cockatiels are proficient egg layers and generally start in early spring. They are stimulated to begin laying by the lengthening daylight hours. Taking away the eggs will most likely stimulated them to lay more. It's probably best to leave the eggs in the cage in a quiet box that they can use as a nest box. Whether the eggs are fertile or not, I'd let them "play house" with them as a means of keeping them focused and busy. One very important consideration is nutrition. Birds that are heavy egg layers like cockatiels need diets that are adequate in calcium and other nutrients. Half or less of their food each day should be seed. The other half should be all of the table foods that you eat everyday with the exception of chocolate and avocados. Emphasize high calcium foods like cheese, tofu, kale, bok choy. A separate tray of crushed oyster shells should always be available. With a well-balanced diet, you can help to avoid problems such as egg binding. Don't be surprised if you see more eggs this spring and summer. The only way to prevent egg laying is to have your female birds surgically spayed. Another alternative that decreases egg production is to cover the cage early each evening to decrease the total daylight hours available.