Pet Care

• How far should I walk my dog?
• How often should I bathe my dog?
• How can I safely use flea control products for my pets?
• Should I shave my thick-furred dog in the summer?
• Can short haired dogs handle cold temperatures?
• Are raw hide chews safe?
• My dogs love carrots. Is there any reason why I shouldn't give carrots to them?
• Do dogs eat grass because they need to vomit, or do they vomit simply because they eat grass?
• How good is a dog's hearing ability?
• Can dogs and cats see colors?
• Is there such a thing as birth control for female dogs without having to have them spayed?
• What dog breed is best for my family and our allergies?
• Who should do my dog's surgery and what should I expect afterward?
• Should cats be given baths? If so, how often? And are there special shampoos?
• Why has my older cat become so lazy about grooming?
• Is it okay to feed my cat milk?
• Can I feed my cat a can of tuna fish?
• Can dogs and cats see colors?
• How can I remove the smell of cat urine from my carpet? 
• I found a baby dove in my yard. What should I feed it until it is ready to fly?
• I really want to become a veterinarian. How do you get into veterinary school?
• I'm experiencing a problem with my current veterinarian. What can I do? What can the American Animal Hospital do for me?
• What's up with pet health insurance?
• Why is veterinary care for my pet(s) so expensive these days? Sometimes I believe I'm spending more on my pet's health care than on my own.
• Need help with your horse, pig, lamb, goat, abandoned wildlife, etc.?
• How can I safely use flea control products for my pets?

There is not one single right answer to this question. Some dogs will do fine with a two-block walk, while others can go two miles. A good rule of thumb is that the shorter the dog's legs, the less distance he can go. Smaller dogs, like pugs or toys, won't be able to go as far as large dogs, like golden retrievers. A dog's breed is important as well. Short-legged breeds, like bulldogs and daschunds, won't be able to walk as far as breeds with longer-legged builds. The walking environment is also a factor. Hot weather will not only make a dog more prone to overheating, but it can heat cement up enough that it could be painful for your dog's paws. Dogs can also walk farther on dirt trails than on sidewalks or asphalt, because rough concrete can be hard on the pads of their feet.

Your dog's age and general health are important as well. If your dog doesn't usually get much exercise, you won't want to start him off with a three-mile jog. Gradually extend the length of your walks to build his endurance. Arthritis, heart disease, and a number of other health concerns could also affect the length of your walks. If your dog has health problems, discuss how far he can walk and how much exercise he should get with your veterinarian.

In the long run, your best bet is to observe your dog while you're walking. When he starts panting excessively and acts tired, then he's walked far enough. This is also a good way to keep an eye on your dog's health. If he used to go three miles with you and now only walks a few blocks, you should consult your veterinarian. It could be a sign of a health problem.

The simplest answer to this question is, whenever he needs it. Dogs who spend the most of their time indoors will not need much bathing, while dogs who are outside a lot, romping in the mud and trees (and possibly other smelly things) will need to be bathed more often. Also, some dogs' coats will accumulate grease and oil more quickly than others. Breeds prone to oily skin and other skin conditions, such as Cocker Spaniels, benefit from regular bathing about every four weeks. Breeds with a thick, double coat, like huskies and chows, only need bathing about 3 or 4 times a year. Washing a dog with an undercoat more often than this can make the coat softer and less waterproof and insulating.

In general, you can use your common sense to judge when your dog needs bathing. If you're concerned about causing dry skin, there are moisturizing treatments available at most pet stores, which you rub into your dog's skin after you shampoo him. If your dog seems uncomfortable or shows signs of skin problems, consult your veterinarian.

Fleas can be a major problem for pet owners. Not only are these tiny creatures a nuisance, they are also the cause of many diseases such as flea anemia, flea bite dermatitis, and tapeworm infestation. Therefore, strict flea control is a necessary step in the health care of many pets. The eradication of fleas from our animals and our homes necessitates the use of products containing insecticides, either in the form of a mousses, spot-ons, oral suspensions, powders or spray mists. While there are many safe insecticide products available for use on pets, caution still must be observed. Pet owners should be extremely careful when using flea products on or around their animals. Products should ALWAYS be used strictly according to their label directions. There are several new products on the market that are only available from your veterinarian. Call your veterinarian to find out more.

The following are some guidelines for dog and cat owners to follow when choosing and applying a flea control product:

Never use insecticides on very young animals, pregnant or nursing pets, debilitated or elderly animals without consulting your veterinarian. With such pets, you may want to consider avoiding the use of insecticides directly on your pet. Instead, you could comb the fleas off the pet with a flea comb then submerge the captured fleas in a small container of soapy water. This would also be a good alternative for those pets who love being groomed but who violently refuse baths or the application of a spray.

Before using any product on your pet, read the label instructions completely. If you do not completely understand the instructions, you should contact the manufacturer or your veterinarian for clarification. Observe the species and age requirements listed on the label. Never use a product labeled "for use on dogs only" on your cats. Cats react very differently than dogs to some insecticides. Some dog products can be deadly to cats, even in tiny amounts. Use caution when using products that contain organophosphates in your house or on your cat. Cats seem to be sensitive to certain organophosphate insecticides. Currently, there are few flea products in the United States labeled for use on cats that contain organophosphates as an active ingredient. The few that can be used on cats contain a small concentration of organophosphate. However, many household sprays and products that are specifically labeled "for use on dogs only" are widely available. Again, never use "dog only" products on your cats!

Never use flea control products that contain permethrin on your cats, unless they are specifically labeled for use on cats. There are some products that are labeled for use on cats that contain small concentrations of permethrin, usually less than 0.1%. When used according to the label instructions, these can be used safely in cats.

Always use caution when using shampoos, sprays, topical spot-ons or mousse near your animal's eyes, ears and genitalia. Accidental exposure could cause mild irritation to these sensitive tissues.

When using a fogger or a home premise spray, make sure to remove all pets from the house for the time period specified on the container. Food and water bowls should be removed from the area also. Allow time for the product to dry completely before returning your dogs or cats to your home. Open windows or use fans to "air out" the household before returning your pets to the treated area. Strong fumes can be irritating to your pet's eyes and upper respiratory system.

If you are uncertain about the usage of any household product, contact the product's manufacturer or your veterinarian to explain the directions before use of the product.

Insect growth regulators like lufenuron, methoprene, and pyriproxyfen can be used in combination or alone with flea control products. They can help break the flea life cycle by inhibiting flea maturation. Growth regulators have minimal adverse effects and can improve the efficacy when used in combination with adult flea insecticides. You should consult your veterinarian or pest control specialist for advice concerning proper use of these products.

Just because a product is labeled to be a "natural" product does not mean that the product is completely safe. Many such "natural" products can be harmful when used inappropriately on cats. For example, d-limonene and linalool are citrus extracts that are used as flea control agents. Though they are natural products, they still can cause harmful side effects if used improperly.

Observe your animal closely after using flea products. If your pet exhibits unusual behavior, or becomes depressed, weak, or uncoordinated, you should seek veterinary advice immediately.

Once again, ALWAYS read the label. This could save the life of your pet!

(Provided as a courtesy by Jill Richardson, DVM, ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center at 1-888-4ani-help.)

You're right to be concerned about your dog's comfort during hot weather. Northern breeds with thick fur like Malamutes and Huskies were developed for cold climates, not the 90 and even 100 degree weather some areas experience in the summer. However, some hair can be beneficial in hot weather, working to insulate dogs from the heat and shield their skin from the sun. Remember, dogs don't use sweat to cool themselves the way people do, so they don't need to have exposed skin in order to stay cool.

That being said, if a dog has too much hair, the hair can stop being beneficial in hot weather and start retaining too much heat. You may be able to thin the coat out enough by brushing your dog thoroughly and consistently with a wire or "rake" type brush designed for heavy-coated breeds. These brushes can remove some of the fuzzy undercoat layer of fur, sometimes enough to make dogs comfortable in warm weather. If she still seems too hot, shaving won't hurt her a bit. Just be careful to leave an inch or so of fur so that she still has some insulation and protection from sunburn.

Even if your dog is shaved, you'll want to be careful with her when temperatures get really high. Don't leave her in a parked car or leave her outside unsupervised for long periods of time. When she's outdoors, she needs shade and plenty of water. Some people buy the drip-system "mister" hoses used to water plants and set them out for their dogs on hot days. You can even freeze water bottles full of water and put them where she lies to keep her cool. And, as with any dog, watch for signs of heatstroke. If your dog is panting, has a staring or anxious expression, does not obey commands, has warm, dry skin, a high fever, and a rapid heartbeat or is vomiting, lower her body temperature quickly with cool water--either by immersion or by spraying thoroughly with a garden hose--and call your veterinarian immediately.

Short haired dogs such as Beagles, Dalmatians, and Dobermans, are not designed for extended outdoor exposures when the temperature dips below freezing.

Rawhide chews are pretty harmless. The problems come when they swallow them whole. They either choke on them, or the rawhide balls up in the stomach and causes gastritis or blockage. We've seen it all. Moderation is the key. One every once in a while is OK, but they shouldn't be included as a regular toy or part of the diet. In addition it's usually best to supervise or at least be nearby when your pet is chewing on any toy.

Carrots are fine, but you need to keep them to less than 10 percent of the total diet. If you give your dogs too many, you could unbalance the diet. Be sure to give them in small pieces or that they are chewed thoroughly to prevent blockages as well.

The cause and effect relationship in animals of eating grass and then vomiting is often questioned. No one has ever proven that dogs are intelligent enough to use grass as a medicinal herb, so those in the medical profession generally believe that dogs eat grass simply because they like the taste of it and that the vomiting just follows. Therefore, it's unlikely that a dog will eat grass or other plants in the hopes that they will settle its stomach. Be aware, however, that some plants, or grass that has been treated with fertilizer or herbicide, can cause stomach upset or other problems, some of which may be severe. See Prevent Poisonings for a list of toxic plants.

Dogs have a great sense of hearing. In fact, it is their second most developed sense (next to smell). Dogs can hear much sharper than humans. Not only can they detect sounds that are much too faint for humans, but they also can hear sounds pitched at frequencies above or below a human's range. Dogs can hear in the range of 67 HZ to 45 kHZ (compared to a high range of 20 kHZ in humans).

Dogs and cats have rods and cones in their retinas but in a different proportion than in the human retina. Although they can differentiate colors, what they see is likely a more muted version of what we see. Dogs, especially, probably see more shades of gray than they do all of the individual colors.

Cats, by the way, can concentrate small amounts of light in their eyes, which allows them to see at night when the rest of us have difficulty. This special talent gives them their extraordinary night hunting vision.

There are oral products on the market that your veterinarian can prescribe for birth control in your dog. The down side is that the drug's literature says that it shouldn't be used in animals intended for later breeding. That seems curious, since most dogs that are going to be kept intact are generally kept that way for breeding purposes. If you are not going to breed your dog, there is medical benefit in spaying before the first heat additional to lifetime reproductive control. It has been well-documented that females that are spayed before their first heat have almost no chance of ever developing mammary cancer. Please discuss these options with your attending veterinarian as both options have their benefits and risks.

Congratulations on your decision to get a dog. They can be wonderful companions, especially for your children. While the allergy issue is certainly a big consideration when choosing a breed, you also need to consider temperament and physical traits when looking at different breeds.
Poodles and Bichons and some of the terriers do rank high on the list of "hypo-allergenic" dogs, but allergies can be very individualized. A breed that may trigger life-threatening reactions in one person may only cause a few sniffles in another individual. If your kids are allergic to dander and not hair, a poodle may not work at all. Allergies are not only determined by the type of dog and the person's tolerance, but can be moderated by exposure (keeping the dog out of the children's bedrooms), frequency of bathing and grooming, etc. Discuss control measures with your children's physician. Then make a list of breeds that you might be interested in owning. You would probably want to avoid long, heavy-coated breeds that require a lot of grooming unless you are willing to do the grooming yourself or have it done professionally.

Visit a dog show and talk to breeders and people that own the breeds that you are interested in. If possible, have the children pet or play with one breed per show and see how their allergies are. If you can narrow it down to a few different breeds, you may be able to "borrow" a dog from a breeder for a few days to see how your children react to it in the home. This may take a while, but will be worth it in the long run to your children and a new dog.

My dog has just been diagnosed with a ruptured cruciate ligament on his hind leg. Who should do the surgery? And what can I expect after the surgery to fix it?

Ruptured cruciate ligaments will not heal on their own. They will only get worse. If your current veterinarian feels confident completing the surgery, then he or she can do it. Otherwise, you can ask for a referral to a board-certified surgeon to complete the procedure.

This injury is just like what happens to athletes. It makes the knee joint unstable, and it can cause quite a bit of pain.

After the surgery, you need to be ready for extended at-home care. It's literally just as important as the surgery itself. You'll need to keep your pet off the stairs for many weeks, and you'll need to keep your pet calm and under control until the healing is done. That means not leaving the pet loose in the house or yard unsupervised. Crates and leashes come in very handy. Your doctor will also show you some exercises you can do to get your pet back to normal.

It can be a big deal, but if you're committed to your pet's recovery, you can greatly impact the long-term success of the surgery.

Cats are generally pretty clean and do not need regular bathing unless they become dirty or have a skin condition. General bathing can be done once a month. For a basic cleaning an over-the-counter pet shampoo will work. Avoid using human shampoos and other human products as they are much too harsh. If your pet has a skin condition, then a special treatment by your veterinarian is wise since special shampoos may be needed for treatment.

As cats age they do not keep up with their grooming. Some get "stiff" and have trouble reaching some areas. You will need to take up the slack. That means brushing more often. You might also try a fine toothed comb over a brush to remove those dead, dull hairs that need to be shed. Bathing with a coat conditioner will help make combing easier. Consult with your veterinarian about coat care products.

Veterinarians generally do not recommend feeding milk to our feline friends. A cat's digestive system does not digest milk well. Feeding milk to your cat can cause diarrhea, which can lead to further nutritional problems (your cat won't be able to absorb nutrients from his or her food).

The human variety of tuna fish contains an enzyme that destroys vitamin B1 (thiamine). Cats who regularly eat tuna can develop a vitamin B1 deficiency, which results in neurological symptoms like dilated eyes, loss of equilibrium, seizures and death if this vitamin is not replaced. The scientific name of this disease is polioencephlomalacia.

Dogs and cats have rods and cones in their retinas but in a different proportion than in the human retina. Although they can differentiate colors, what they see is likely a more muted version of what we see. Dogs, especially, probably see more shades of gray than they do all of the individual colors.
Cats, by the way, can concentrate small amounts of light in their eyes, which allows them to see at night when the rest of us have difficulty. This special talent gives them their extraordinary night hunting vision

Cat urine should be cleaned from a carpet with a special enzyme cleaner that you might have to purchase at a janitorial supply shop if you can't find it elsewhere. Ask your veterinarian. Many keep it on hand for clients to use at home. Because urine usually soaks through to the padding, you might have to consider rolling back the carpet and cutting out and replacing a patch of the padding to do a really good job.
Whenever cats are having unusual toilet habits, it's also important to check for physical problems that may be causing it. Infections, diabetes, and other diseases can change the behavior of a normally litterbox trained cat. Check with your veterinarian on these issues so that you don't just clean the carpet and overlook a possible physical problem.

Try some crushed dry cat or dog food. If the bird pecks for the food, you can also use a mixed millet seed diet, much like what people feed parakeets. In the event the bird doesn't peck for the food, try watering down the cat or dog food. If the dove still doesn't eat, further moisten this mixture and feed the bird with a dropper. Because doves are seed eaters, these two food items will be very adequate in getting the bird to the feathered stage, where it is ready for a life of its own outdoors.

It's also a smart move to contact wildlife rescue. To locate a local licensed wildlife rehabilitator, contact your veterinarian or Audubon Society office. Also, make sure to carefully look over the bird and call the veterinarian immediately if you spot any obvious physical wounds.

Getting into veterinary college requires that you get good grades in high school courses like biology, chemistry, and math. Good communication skills are also necessary as well as empathy for both people and pets. Most veterinarians spend at least two years at an undergraduate college before they can qualify to apply to veterinary school. Veterinary college is a four-year program, so there is a minimum of six years of college study required.
After you graduate from veterinary college, you take national and state/provincial board exams. Assuming that you pass, you can immediately start practicing as a licensed veterinarian in that state. Many veterinary graduates go onto special residency programs and additional studies before entering private practice. There are many interesting careers open to veterinary graduates, including private medical practice, government relations, research, etc.

As a matter of course, we recommend trying to solve any issues directly with the veterinarian. Often these things stem from miscommunication, and going to an outside source can just complicate the issue. If after direct, diligent pursuit of a solution you are still unsatisfied, then there are a few options open to you:

If you consider the matter a business or financial issue, then your local Better Business Bureau may be of some help.
If you consider the matter an operational or medical issue, then your state/provincial veterinary medical association may be a good resource for you.
If you consider the matter a malpractice issue, then only your state/provincial veterinary medical licensing board has jurisdiction.

Don't be surprised if you don't get much help via the phone. Most often these agencies require written notification.

The American Animal Hospital Association establishes standards for animal hospitals. AAHA's standards relate primarily to facilities, equipment, and proper recording of procedures. Members must demonstrate compliance with these standards and are subject to periodic on-site evaluation by our staff. In setting these standards, AAHA's goal is to ensure that AAHA-accredited hospitals have the proper facilities and environment to delivery high-quality medical care to pets.

AAHA only has jurisdiction over hospitals that have voluntarily completed and passed our inspection process. While we can be reasonably sure that the proper facilities and equipment are available, the ultimate delivery of care depends on the personnel at the facility. Accordingly, when issues arise that are outside of the AAHA standards, we have no authority to discipline or render judgment.

The American Animal Hospital Association is not affiliated with any pet health insurance company, nor do we have information regarding pet insurance companies, their policies, or costs. However, according to our 1997 survey of 1,225 pet owners, 1 percent carry insurance for their pets. Those who do have health insurance for their pets reported paying $141 on average each year, with the low being $30 and the high being $500.

Relatively speaking, veterinary care is a great deal. The cost of veterinary care has actually risen very little during the last 20 to 30 years. When compared to the rising cost of human health care, pet care is not at all unreasonable.
Bear in mind that your veterinarian is not only your pet's general physician, but also its surgeon, radiologist, dentist, dermatologist, neurologist, ophthalmologist, psychiatrist, ears/nose/throat doctor, and pharmacist. You would never expect your own physician to provide a diagnosis, care, and medication free of charge. You cannot ask your veterinarian to do this for your pet.

Your veterinary bill is a reflection of the costs of maintaining suitable facilities, equipment, and support personnel to provide the level of care that is expected in animal medicine today. Veterinarians must cover their employees' salaries, costly equipment, the expense of years of professional training, and the expense of continuing education for staying up-to-date on the latest research. When veterinarians subsidize clients' bills, they are endangering their practices. Remember too that the original cost of the animal has no bearing on the cost of services rendered.

Although it may feel as if you are paying more for your pet's health care than your own, chances are that you probably have adequate health care insurance for your own needs. Consequently, you may never see the total bottom-line figure for your own doctor bills. When human health care costs are added up-including insurance, deductibles, and pharmaceutical costs-there is no comparison to the much lower veterinary care costs.

The extent of care given to any animal is ultimately determined by its owner. As a responsible pet owner, you place a high value on your animal and will want to consider what's best for your pet.

Every pet owner has different ideas about what is acceptable pet care. Veterinarians can only make their clients aware of the services and products that are available and then provide guidance in their choices and decisions. The owner is given options; the owner makes the call.

It's important to understand that most veterinarians can and will go the extra mile for their clients, but they simply cannot jeopardize the quality of their business by waiving fees.

AAHA veterinarians are primarily small animal doctors, meaning animals that are most commonly kept as pets. We do not have the expertise or resources to answer any questions relating to larger animals (like horses), livestock (like pigs, lambs, cows, or goats), and wildlife (wild birds, squirrels, raccoons, etc). For help with large animals or livestock, you'll need to contact a large animal veterinarian in your area. For help with wildlife, you'll need to contact your local wildlife agency or rescue group or perhaps your local zoo.

Fleas can be a major problem for pet owners. Not only are these tiny creatures a nuisance, they are also the cause of many diseases such as flea anemia, flea bite dermatitis, and tapeworm infestation. Therefore, strict flea control is a necessary step in the health care of many pets. The eradication of fleas from our animals and our homes necessitates the use of products containing insecticides, either in the form of a mousses, spot-ons, oral suspensions, powders or spray mists. While there are many safe insecticide products available for use on pets, caution still must be observed. Pet owners should be extremely careful when using flea products on or around their animals. Products should ALWAYS be used strictly according to their label directions. There are several new products on the market that are only available from your veterinarian. Call your veterinarian to find out more.